Exploring the Japanese Countryside by E-Bike

There is perhaps no better way to see Japan than from the saddle of a bicycle. Quietly gliding though the countryside on two wheels allows you to be fully immersed in the sights, scents, and sounds of the landscape. You have complete freedom to stop and enjoy the scenery, snap a photo, or take a detour down any side road that arouses your curiosity. You might also want to pause to interact with a friendly local, or duck into a local cafe or shop.

Many visitors to this hyper-modern nation are surprised to see how pleasantly frozen in time rural Japan can be, when compared to the futuristic city-scapes of Tokyo or Osaka. As a mode of transport, cycling can make your journey more enriching and unique than being rushed from one tourist attraction to another. And you will know that your travels have contributed to the local communities you have visited, rather than to the woes of over-tourism.  

While no one should leave Japan without having witnessed some of the iconic highlights of Kyoto, I highly recommend you set aside at least a few days in your itinerary to experience the subtler and more authentic charms of the less popular sites. 

"Wakasa" today refers to a coastal region northeast of Kyoto that makes up part of Fukui Prefecture. But it was once an independent prefecture, and one of three tasked with providing food products to the imperial household in ancient times. The seaport of Wakasa Obama has a history that goes back farther than that of Kyoto, and offers plenty of unforgettable sites and experiences far from the madding crowd. Explore charming Edo-period neighborhoods and post towns, magnificent temples over a thousand years old, and picturesque shorelines. You can try your hand at fishing or sea-kayaking, or taste the region’s famous seafood. For more information about Obama and the surrounding Wakasa area, check out my previous article "Obama by the Sea".

If you’re an avid cyclist who enjoys leg-burning climbs, you may be up for the challenge of riding from Kyoto to Obama long the beautiful and historic Saba Kaido (“Mackerel Highway”) trade route. Or, if steep climbs are not your forte but you’re able to be in the saddle for the better part of the day, you could rent an e-bike. Learn more about this route in “The Saba Kaido Raido”.

But, if you’re just looking to enjoy some leisurely electric-assisted cycling through beautiful countryside, one of these day trips through rural Japan might be ideal.

• historic neighborhoods
• stunning coastal views
• charming fishing villages
• coffee at an Edo-period sea captain’s restored estate

Ride through the historic neighborhood of Sancho Machi and along the coast to the fishing hamlet of Tagarasu and back.

Sancho Machi
During the Edo period, Obama was an important port of call for the kitamaebune trading ships. These wooden sailing ships transported goods from Hokkaido, down the  coast of Sea of Japan, and up the Inland Sea as far as Osaka, trading along the way and amassing a small fortune.
 
The crews of these ships would often find themselves stuck in port awaiting a favorable wind with plenty of time and money on their hands, and a whole industry developed to keep them entertained. Port towns along the kitamaebune trading route maintained thriving geisha districts, and Obama was no exception.

Here, the former pleasure quarter is called “Sancho Machi”, and has been designated an Important Preservation District for Groups of Traditional Buildings. Most of these delightful old buildings are privately owned by residents, and the neighborhood retains an authentic atmosphere you won’t find in the more touristy spots.

Ride through the narrow streets while admiring the traditional architecture, or park your bike and explore a restored ryotei (Geisha house).

Goshoen
From there, you will ride across the Minami and Kita Rivers and along the coast, and past another historical area. Take a moment to stop for coffee and a sweet at Goshoen - a beautifully restored  Edo-period residence of a former kitamaebune sea captain. Peruse the shop featuring locally made lacquered chopsticks, a centuries-old staple industry of Obama, or sit in the spacious traditional interior while gazing out at the magnificent garden.

Tagarasu
The road becomes more rural and winding on the outskirts of town and, after passing through a tunnel, you will cycle past a series of small fishing hamlets or "sato-umi" - coastal areas where biological productivity and biodiversity have increased through human interaction. Many traditional livelihoods are well-preserved in these areas, such as fishing, fish farming, and harvesting of marine products like seaweed and sea salt. The last such hamlet on this route is Tagarasu, whose name means "crows in the rice paddy”. You can stop along the way to take in the famous view of the rice paddies looking out over Wakasa Bay, and then coast into the hamlet itself, which seems forgotten by time. Tagarasu continues the Edo-period tradition of fermenting fish, known as "heshiko." You can read more about this village and the process of making heshiko here.

• historically significant shrines and temples
• scenic countryside and villages
• lunch or coffee in a restored farmhouse

Ride out of town and into the countryside along the sparkling Onyu River, while stopping to visit amazing shrines and temples dating as far back as the 6th century.

Thanks to Obama’s role as an important way-point in the transmission of Buddhism to Japan, this small city boasts a plethora of impressive temples and ancient Buddhist statues - many of which have been designated important cultural properties. It also possesses several extraordinary Shinto shrines.

Wakasahiko & Wakasahime Shrines
The oldest shrines in the Wakasa region are Wakasahiko and Wakasahime. Together they form a complex that was founded in the early 7th century, in dedication to a divine married couple from Japanese mythology. It takes about 5 minutes to ride from one shrine to the other.
 
Wakasahiko, enshrining the male deity, is associated with safety and the success of fishermen, while Wakasahime enshrines a goddess from the sea, and attracts women who come to pray for a safe and easy childbirth. Equally venerated is the 1000-year-old sacred cedar tree which guards over Wakahime Shrine.
 
Both of these shrines were built in a simple, unembellished Shinto style that integrates harmoniously with their natural surroundings.

Jingu-ji
Another 7 minute ride upstream along the Onyu River brings you to Jingu-ji. This temple enshrines both a Buddha and a Shinto Deity, in the ancient syncretic tradition known as Shinbutsu Shugo. For over a thousand years, Shinto and Buddhism co-existed harmoniously, often within the same temple or shrine precinct, until Emperor Meiji separated them by decree and “modernized” Shinto.
 
This temple happily survived this period of forced separation and continues to host a well-known Shinto ceremony known as Omizu-Okuri (Water Sending), held annually on March 2. A corresponding ritual called Omizu-Tori (Water Receiving) occurs on March 12 at Todaiji Temple’s Nigatsudo in Nara.

It is said that the water that is released into a river reaches Wakasa Well in Nigatsudo during those 10 days. These two Shinto rituals demonstrate the close ties that Nara and Obama have maintained since ancient times.

Mantoku-ji
On your way back to town, a short detour to Mantoku-ji on the opposite side of the Onyu River is well worth the trip. This ancient temple was reconstructed in its present form over 400 years ago, and is well known for its resplendant garden, particularly in autumn.

The garden covers 1,800 square meters and utilizes the natural slope of the surrounding mountains, making it appear even larger. Beyond a wide stretch of white gravel, the hillside is covered with well-pruned bushes and trees, and a large, 2.2-meter stone representing Dainichi Buddha (the cosmic Buddha) is placed in the center.

About 200 maple trees of various sizes encircle the garden, creating a spectacular palette of red and yellow in the fall. Because of this, the garden at Mantokuji was selected as one of Japan’s top 100 spots for viewing autumn foliage. But every season offers something to delight the eyes, including the famous azaleas that bloom in May and June.

A traditional thatched-roof building next to the garden was used to entertain important guests and contains many works of art and other treasures, some of which are designated Important Cultural Properties. Its main hall, atop a flight of stone steps, enshrines a statue of the Amida Buddha carved in the 12th century.

• breathtaking 360 degree views
• rewarding climb
• thrilling descent
• coffee at an Edo-period sea captain’s restored estate

Ride to the summit of Mt. Kusuyagadake (670m) along the scenic Angel Line drive.

Warning: This descent on this route is very steep and winding, and not recommended for inexperienced cyclists.

Angel Line
To reach this famed drive, head east out of town across the Minami and Kita rivers, and follow the shoreline to the starting point. This 670 m climb can be a quite a challenge on a conventional bicycle. But with some electric assistance, you’ll be able to pedal your way up with ease. Enjoy the panoramic views of Wakasa Bay from the peak, as well as several gorgeous viewpoints along the way.

The descent can be exhilarating, but exercise caution and do not exceed 30 kph as you coast down this roller coaster of a road.

Goshoen
After reaching the bottom, ride back along the coast and through a seaside hamlet to Goshoen. This Edo-period estate, once belonging to a kitamaebune sea captain, has been tastefully restored and converted into a cafe and chopstick shop. Peruse the shop selling lacquered chopsticks, a centuries-old staple industry of Obama, or sit in the spacious traditional interior while gazing out at the magnificent garden.

• Edo-period architecture and townscape
• drink from a sacred spring
• picturesque countryside
• world-class coffee

Ride from Kumagawajuku post town through villages to Uriwari Falls. Continue riding an undulating course along forest roads.

Kumagawa Juku
Several routes make up the network of roads known as the Saba Kaido (Mackerel Road). Kumagawa Juku was a post town along the “Kutsuki” route (now National Route 303), and it still preserves much of its Edo-period architecture and scenery. Ride along the old road parallel to Route 303 while taking in the charming traditional streetscape and stopping at some of the shops along the way.

Sol’s Coffee Lab


For a world class hand-drip coffee or espresso drink, stop into Sol's Coffee Lab. Sol's, a small chain with three shops in Tokyo, chose Kumagawa Juku for its only location outside the capital because of the excellent water, which they truck from the nearby sacred spring of Uriwari Falls. This sweet spring water, combined with expertly roasted beans, make for a unique coffee experience you wont find in the city.

Uriwari Falls
A beautiful ride along the Kita River and village roads brings you to the sacred spring known as Uriwari Falls, where Sol’s Coffee acquires their special water. Take some time to rest in this peaceful setting, and fill up your bottle with the sacred water before continuing across rice paddies and into the forest, on an undulating circular route that brings you back to your starting point.

BY PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION
 
From Kyoto Station
Take the Tokaido Sanyo Local Line to Omi-Imazu Station (50 minutes), and then a bus to Obama Station (1 hour).
 
Or, take the Thunderbird Limited Express Train to Tsuruga Station (also 50 minutes) where you can then transfer to the JR Obama Line (about 1 hour).
 
From Tokyo Station
Take the Hokuriku Shinkansen to Tsuruga Station (about 3 hours and 15 minutes), and transfer to the JR Obama Line (1 hour).

BY CAR FROM KYOTO
 
Please check out my article "Driving the Mackerel Highway" for detailed info on exploring Wakasa and the Saba Kaido by rental car.

To reserve an E-bike Rental and obtain detailed route information, please contact:

Obama Tourism Information Center
6-1 Ekimaecho, Obama City, Fukui Prefecture 917-0077
TEL: 0770-52-3844
Business hours 9:00-18:00
(Winter business hours 9:00-17:00)